Can You Sharpen Scissors, Razors, or Other Tools

Many people know the importance of regular knife sharpening for kitchen knives – but what about other everyday tools? Can you sharpen scissors, razors, or kitchen gadgets like peelers and mandoline slicers? The answer is often yes. In this article, we explain whether and how scissors, razors, and other common kitchen tools can be sharpened, comparing their sharpening process to that of kitchen knives. We’ll also discuss tool-specific techniques, challenges (like different bevels or disassembly needs), examples of when sharpening is worth it versus when replacement makes more sense, and practical maintenance tips to keep all these tools sharp and functional.

Can You Sharpen Scissors and Kitchen Shears?

Sharpening a scissor blade on a whetstone - it's often best to take scissors apart and sharpen each blade separately for best results.

Yes – you can sharpen scissors and kitchen shears, though the technique differs from sharpening a standard knife. Most kitchen knives have a double-beveled “V” edge on both sides, but scissors are two blades that meet and typically have a single-bevel edge (chisel grind) on each blade. In practice, only the inner side of each scissor blade is ground to form the cutting edge, while the outer side is often flat. Because of this design, it’s best to take the scissors apart (if they have a screw hinge) and sharpen each blade separately. This makes it easier to maintain the correct angle along the entire edge and prevents the opposing blade from cutting your hand while you work. You would sharpen the beveled side of each blade using a sharpening stone or file, holding the blade at the existing bevel angle. The flat side should generally not be beveled further – instead, you can lay that side flat on the stone briefly to remove any burr after sharpening the bevel. Once both halves are sharpened, reassemble the scissors and test the cut. Often, simply cutting the reassembled blades together a few times will strip away remaining burrs and align the edges.

For kitchen shears (the heavy-duty scissors for poultry and herbs), the same principles apply. Many kitchen shears are designed to come apart for easy cleaning and sharpening. If your shears have one serrated blade (common in poultry shears), avoid grinding away the serrations. The serrated side isn’t meant to be sharpened like a smooth edge – its serrations grip the material while the other blade does the cutting. In such cases, sharpen only the non-serrated blade’s bevel, and lightly hone the flat side of the serrated blade (to remove debris or tiny burrs) without filing down the teeth. If the micro-serrations are completely worn down or damaged, you may need to replace the shears or have a professional restorer re-serrate them, since recreating that factory serration is difficult at home.

Scissor sharpening vs. knife sharpening: The motion and tools are similar (you can use a whetstone or professional sharpening system), but you must match the scissors’ larger bevel angle. Scissor blades tend to have a higher angle (often 30–45° per side, creating a sturdy edge for shearing) compared to a typical kitchen knife’s 15–20° per side. The good news is the wide bevel of a scissor blade is easy to see and hold against the stone at the proper angle. Use smooth strokes along the stone, from the base (the “beak” or hinge end of the blade) to the tip. You’ll usually feel a burr on the flat side when you’ve removed enough material. After sharpening, clean off any grinding dust and tighten the screw if needed to ensure the blades close crisply.

Quick tune-up tricks: If your scissors are only slightly dull (cutting takes a bit more effort but they still work), you might get away with a quick honing trick instead of a full sharpening. For example, cutting through a folded piece of aluminum foil a few times, or slicing through fine sandpaper, can help hone and refresh the edge by grinding off minor burrs and nicks. (Fold the sandpaper with the abrasive side out and make a dozen cuts through it – this can impart a bit of micro-abrasion to the blade). Keep in mind these hacks don’t truly re-sharpen a very dull blade – they merely realign and polish the edge, buying you some time. If your scissors can’t cleanly cut paper even after such tricks, it’s time for a proper sharpening on a stone or to seek a professional service.

When to sharpen vs replace scissors: Quality scissors and shears are built to last and worth sharpening. A sturdy pair of stainless kitchen shears, sewing scissors, or pruning shears can be sharpened many times rather than replaced. However, very cheap scissors (the kind used for light crafts or sold as disposable) may not be worth the effort if they go dull – replacements could cost only a few dollars. For any good kitchen or chef’s shears, sharpening is usually the best option to restore performance. If you notice the blades nicking or not closing flush, address it promptly. Also, use kitchen scissors only for kitchen tasks – cutting paper, cardboard, or plastic packaging with them will dull them faster (have a separate utility scissors for those non-food jobs). With proper use and occasional sharpening, a quality pair of scissors will serve you for years. And if DIY sharpening sounds daunting, remember that professional knife sharpening services can sharpen scissors and shears as well – they have the right equipment to reset the edge precisely.

Can You Sharpen a Vegetable Peeler?

Surprisingly, yes – you can sharpen a vegetable peeler’s blade, although in many cases it might be just as easy to replace the peeler when it gets dull. Peelers come in a few designs (Y-peelers, straight peelers), but all have a small, very sharp blade that dulls with use. If you notice your peeler skidding on a carrot or removing thick strips rather than thin peels, it’s getting dull. There are a couple of ways to bring back its edge:

• Honing trick: A quick fix for a slightly dull peeler is to “strop” it with a knife. Take a hardened steel object like the back of a paring knife, and rub it along the peeler’s blade at the same angle as the blade edge (as if you’re trying to slice the knife with the peeler). Do this a few times on each side of the peeler blade. This doesn’t exactly sharpen the blade (it’s more of a hone), but it can realign the edge and remove tiny burrs, often restoring the peeler’s cutting ability for a while. Chefs have been known to use this trick to avoid constantly buying new peelers – one cook noted they haven’t had to buy another peeler since learning this honing method.
• Sharpening with a tool: For a more thorough sharpening, you can treat a peeler blade like a small knife – though it’s a bit awkward due to its size and attachment. If the peeler’s blade is removable, you can carefully take it out of the handle. Using a small handheld knife sharpener or sharpening stone, hold the blade firmly and glide the sharpener along the cutting edge at the existing angle. A fine metal file or a small ceramic rod (like those in knife sharpening kits) can also work; run it along the beveled side of the peeler blade, as if sharpening a tiny knife, and then lightly remove any burr on the opposite side. Remember to be gentle – peeler blades are thin, and you don’t want to drastically change their shape. If your peeler has dual blades or a swiveling blade, be sure to sharpen both sides evenly. Always exercise caution to avoid cutting yourself on the small blade.

While you can sharpen a peeler, it’s not always worth the effort. Peelers are generally inexpensive, and the blades are small and can be fiddly to work with. If a basic peeler costs only a couple of dollars, replacing it might be more practical than spending half an hour trying to sharpen its tiny blade. That said, if you have a higher-end peeler or a sentimental favorite, sharpening can prolong its life. Some modern peelers even come with self-sharpening blades or use harder materials: for example, ceramic-blade peelers stay sharp longer (though they can chip if dropped), and carbon steel peelers can hold an edge well but need drying to prevent rust. In general, try the quick honing trick first; if that’s not enough and you’re up for a DIY project, do a careful sharpening as described. Otherwise, keep an eye out for replacement blades (some peelers allow you to swap in a new blade) or just treat yourself to a new peeler when the old one gets frustrating. Keeping the blade clean and dry will also help it stay sharper longer (dried-on food residue can dull blades).

Can You Sharpen Mandoline Blades?

A mandoline slicer is a fantastic kitchen tool for getting paper-thin, uniform slices – but a dull mandoline is infamous for being more dangerous than a sharp one. In fact, a dull mandoline can be just as bad, if not worse, than a sharp one in terms of causing injury, because you have to push food much harder against a dull blade. The extra force increases the chance of slipping – and if it slips, your fingers could be in harm’s way. For that reason alone, it’s important to keep mandoline blades sharp (and always use the safety guard or cut-resistant gloves, sharp or not!).

So can you sharpen a mandoline’s blade? In many cases, yes – the blade on a mandoline slicer is essentially a knife blade, often a single-bevel blade, which means it’s sharpened on only one side like a chisel or plane blade. Many mandolines (especially the flat, hand-held models) have a removable straight blade. To sharpen it, follow these general steps:

1. Remove the blade from the mandoline. Almost all designs have screws or clips holding the blade in place. Never attempt to sharpen the blade while it’s still attached to the mandoline frame – that’s an easy way to cut yourself. Instead, carefully unscrew or unclip the blade and handle it by the dull spine side.
2. Identify the bevel: Mandoline blades usually have one side that’s sharpened to a bevel and the other side which is flat (or nearly flat) against the slicer. The beveled side is the one you’ll sharpen. The flat side should just be honed or deburred. This single-bevel design is different from most kitchen knives (which have a double bevel), so if you use a pull-through knife sharpener, check if it has a single-bevel setting; some pull-through sharpeners do have a slot for sharpening scissors or single-sided blades. If it does, you might be able to run the mandoline blade through that. Otherwise, you’ll sharpen it manually on a whetstone.
3. Sharpen the beveled side on a whetstone or file: Just as you would sharpen a chisel or one side of a knife, lay the beveled side against a sharpening stone at the correct angle. Move the blade across the stone, grinding along the entire bevel. You can use a medium-fine grit (say 1000–2000 grit) unless the blade has chips that need a coarser stone. Because the blade is typically long and straight, it’s similar to sharpening a chef’s knife or a planer blade – keep the angle consistent and make sure you cover the full edge. You’ll likely feel a burr forming on the flat side when you’ve sharpened enough.
4. Deburr the flat side: Flip the blade over and give the flat side a few very light passes on the stone flat against the stone (or use a fine ceramic rod). The goal here isn’t to create a new angle, but just to remove the burr created from sharpening the other side. A couple of gentle strokes should suffice.
5. Clean and reassemble: Wipe the blade clean (carefully) to remove metal filings. Slot it back into the mandoline and tighten the screws. Your mandoline should now slice much easier – in fact, be cautious, as the feel of a newly sharpened mandoline blade can be surprising if you’re used to pushing hard on a dull one.

If this process sounds involved, there are always alternatives. Many people opt to take the blade to a local knife-sharpening service (most professional sharpeners can handle a mandoline blade just like a knife) or, if available, buy a replacement blade from the manufacturer. Mandoline blades can often be found as spare parts, and swapping in a brand-new blade is obviously effective (just keep the old one as a backup or have it sharpened later). Which option makes sense might depend on cost and convenience – a replacement might cost $10–20, whereas sharpening could be a few dollars if you have the tools or $5–10 if done professionally. If you use your mandoline heavily (say, in a restaurant or for big batches of canning prep), sharpening the blade periodically is worthwhile to maintain clean cuts. If you only pull it out occasionally, you might go years before it dulls enough to need attention. Just remember: sharp is safe on a mandoline as long as you use it properly. Always use the hand guard or glove, because even a sharp blade won’t forgive a moment of carelessness!

Sharpening vs. Replacing: When Is It Worth It?

With any tool – be it a knife, scissors, or a gadget blade – a key question is when to sharpen it and when to just replace it. Sharpening can revive tools and save money, but it requires time, effort, or a small expense if you use a service. Replacement might be easier for cheap items. Here are some general guidelines to consider:

• Sharpening is worth it when: The tool is good quality or expensive enough that you want to prolong its life. For example, high-end kitchen scissors or salon shears, quality chef’s knives, and straight razors are meant to last and be resharpened. If the blade is readily accessible and can be sharpened effectively (e.g. a mandoline blade or plain-edged knife), you’ll likely get better performance by sharpening it rather than replacing. Sharpening is also the preferable option for tools that you use often and want at peak performance – a quick sharpening can make an old tool work like new. Additionally, for sustainability and waste reduction, sharpening instead of tossing is a big win. Many specialized or higher-priced tools (say a $50 pair of kitchen shears) justify the small cost of sharpening versus the cost of a new item. In short, if the item is built to be maintained (many come-apart shears, quality knives, etc.), then maintain it.
• Replacement is better when: The tool is very inexpensive or designed as disposable. A classic example is disposable razor cartridges – yes, you might hone them a bit, but fundamentally they’re meant to be thrown out and replaced. Another example is a cheap vegetable peeler or bargain bin scissors; if it only cost a couple bucks, spending time or money to sharpen it may not be practical. One cook put it bluntly regarding peelers: for the time and cost of a proper sharpening stone, you’re probably better off just buying a new £1.50 peeler. Severely damaged blades also lean toward replacement – for instance, a peeler or knife with a big chunk missing from the blade, or heavily rusted cheap scissors, aren’t worth the trouble to fix in most cases. Complex blade issues can be another reason to replace: if a tool has very fine serrations or ceramic edges that you cannot sharpen at home, you might swap it out (or in the case of something like serrated kitchen shears, you might replace them once dull since sharpening tiny serrations is very labor intensive without professional tools). Finally, consider availability: if the manufacturer offers a replacement blade (as with some mandolines, food processors, or blender blades), it can be straightforward to just insert a new sharp blade and retire the old one (or send it for recycling if possible).

In many cases, it’s not an all-or-nothing choice – you might sharpen a tool a few times to extend its life, then eventually replace it when it’s too worn or when the cost of sharpening exceeds the cost of a new one. For example, a good pair of kitchen shears can be sharpened repeatedly over years, but the pivot might eventually loosen or the blades wear down so much that a new pair makes sense. Or you might replace a mandoline blade once it’s thin from many sharpenings. Keep an eye on the tool’s performance: if sharpening no longer yields a lasting edge, that’s a clue that the material may be exhausted or inferior, and replacement is the best bet.

In conclusion, most common cutting tools in the kitchen can be sharpened, though each in its own way. Scissors, shears, razors, peelers, and mandoline blades all have their quirks, but with the right technique or help, you can keep them in top shape. Always weigh the effort of sharpening versus the cost of replacement, and remember that safety comes first – a sharp tool used properly is safer than a dull one used with force. Whether you choose to sharpen at home or use a professional knife sharpening service, maintaining your kitchen tools’ edges will save you money, improve your results, and make your time in the kitchen (or workshop) much more enjoyable. Happy sharpening!

Still curious? Check out our Ultimate Guide to Knife Sharpening.

P.s. If you’re in Singapore and need professional sharpening, feel free to visit our knife sharpening service! We offer precision sharpening for all types of knives, ensuring your blades stay razor-sharp.